Ancient & Modern

3 hours ago4 min read

The book of Nahum opens with these words, “The burden of Nineveh, the book of the vision of Nahum the Alqoshite.” It brings the ancient words into our present day.

Alqosh, a tiny, though growing in a sprawled fashion, village situated above the Nineveh plains, is home to the ancient Assyrian community who show loyalty to the Chaldean Catholic Church. They have cleverly and wisely marked their land and territory by erecting the Christian cross around the village borders. Their land can not be disputed. To do so would be to argue with the cross, with Christendom itself.

On one side of the village, high up in the mountains is the Rabban Hormizd Monastery, the other side on the slopes is the ancient tomb of Prophet Nahum. In the middle is the Hammurabi Heritage Centre, which amongst other things (such as a conference hall) has created a museum honoring and preserving the ancient traditions and equipment used by the Assyrian community. It is a wonderful place.

Our students were headed for a visit to the Rabban Hormizd and the Lady of the Seeds Monasteries which is home to ancient scrolls and manuscripts. However as Alqosh modernises it has closed its doors on travellers.

I have to mention that as ISIS came to the foot of the mountain, the priests tried to plan how to protect and hide their manuscripts manuscripts that are of immense value to the Catholic world, but they never entered, they never took the village of Alqosh. It was the only Christian village that was not invaded.

(With regards to proximity to us in Shariya, it's only five minutes away over the mountain. I remember how Dr Saeed used to talk about his decision to remain in Shariya or to leave, taking his family to safety, when ISIS was in Alqosh. It was as if the brakes of heaven were hit. The decision was made for him and for the few that had chosen to remain in their village.)

We were told that we needed permission from the Monastery, then permission from security to visit, so our plans had to change. We went to the Hammurabi Heritage centre which was fascinating.

The same is true with the Tomb of Nahum, for all the years that it was broken, neglected and crumbling to pieces, one had open access. Having been exquisitely renovated, it is now impossible to visit without hard to obtain security clearance. Reality is such that one would not wish to expose oneself in order to request permission to visit.

Alqosh is a somewhat different village. It is far removed in its character from the Assyrian Christians of AvZruk, it is not a friendly village. There are no children out playing. There is no sense that a visitor is welcome, in fact the very opposite. One feels the eyes behind the lace curtains staring into the soul. The feeling is not pleasant.

It's the village that displays the life of Christ, from camels arriving to his crucifixion and ascent into heaven. One rounds the corner to be faced with this display which adds great prestige to the courtyard of the owner of the house. Many of the other homes are painted with Santa in a year round Christmas event.

Before Nahum was rendered off limits we made friends with its caretaker the wonderful Mr Nasser who always invited us in for tea. Mr Nasser had given his life to take care of the Prophet’s Tomb. He wept over its disarray, he knew every stone, every carved letter on the walls. He would try to find enough money in the winter to lay a tarpaulin over the gaping holes in the roof. Nachum was his life.

He told us the reason for him marrying late in life was that his father, the previous caretaker of the tomb, was unable to find a bride for him in the village, the prospective bride knowing that her lot in life would be the wife of the next generation of caretakers. No one would marry our Mr. Nasser who refused to broaden his search outside the village.

Of course he finally married and had children. His joy was looking after the prophet’s tomb and keeping an eye on the homes once owned by the Jewish community. He would always tell me, note the houses, one day you might need that knowledge, maybe even one day you can come and live, the owners are long gone, but you need to know this.

Then a sad day came, a Swiss heritage renovation and restoration team swept into the village, setting up offices, and a command centre. Skilled and precise, they had no interest in Mr Nasser and took his precious key from him.

Mr Nasser’s heart was so wounded. Together we made one last mission and went inside to say goodbye to Nachum for the last time.

So dear friend, if and when you visit Alqosh, and enjoy as did our students, the heritage center, the work equipment and the preservation of traditions, please glance across the hills, and there between the churches and the graveyards is the Tomb of Nachum in all is splendour but totally alone. Nachum the Old Testament prophet belongs to you also. Do not disregard him as the villagers have done.

And in this village where the ancient history has led to modern restrictions, give a thought for the one friendly person in the village, the wonderful Mr Nasser.

And yes, we hope to gain permission to visit the two monasteries. If we do we will share their secrets with you.